This is the historic church of St Materiana dating from the year 1080, when building started on this rocky north Cornwall coast, within view of Tintagel Castle, the legendary home of King Arthur. It took a generation to build and it still stands here today on top of Glebe Cliff.
This was a religious site from as early as the 5th century when the Welsh Saint Materiana, also known as Madryn evangelised this area. First an oratory served by monks and then a Saxon church, before it was replaced after the Norman Conquest.
In fact all of this was so long ago that this Saint went under many name changes over the centuries, Madrun, Madryn, Merteriana, Merthiana, Marcelliana, or Matrona. Materiana is said to have been a princess of the 5th century, the eldest of three daughters of King Vortimer the Blessed, who, after her father's death, ruled over Gwent with her husband Prince Ynyr. Don't forget that two thousand years ago there were far more cultural ties between Wales and Cornwall than there are today.
Although the King Arthur and Merlin stories are myths and legends, there was a castle at Tintagel which now claims to be the origin of those myths.
From about the 5th to the 7th century AD it was an important stronghold, and probably a residence of rulers of Cornwall. It was probably memories of this seat of Cornish kings that inspired the 12th-century writer Geoffrey of Monmouth to name it in his History of the Kings of Britain as the place where King Arthur was conceived, with the help of Merlin.
In turn, these associations with the legend led the hugely rich and ambitious Richard, Earl of Cornwall, to build a castle here in the 1230s. The site was of no military value – legend alone seems to have inspired him to build here. And long after the castle had fallen into decay, its mythical associations kept interest in Tintagel alive.
At the entrance to the church is this stone coffin rest and side benches.
This is the south door and porch. Both north and south doorways are Norman, the north cruder and perhaps earlier than the south. The north porch is probably 14th century and the south porch a later rebuilding of a 13th-century porch.
Art historian Nikolaus Pevsner (writing in 1950) suggested that its Norman-era design includes some Saxon features, while the tower may be 13th or 15th century in date. The most significant change in its design was the restoration in 1870 by Piers St Aubyn which included a new roof. Later changes include a number of new stained glass windows: many of these portray saints, including St Materiana, St George and St Piran.
The rood screen (which would have had access to the loft on the south side) is of the 15th century but the canopy has been removed, probably at the Reformation.
This window is dedicated to the little known St. Symphorian. His story goes back a long way, nearly 2000 years in fact. He must be one of the earliest Christian Saints.
He lived in central France at Autun where he was converted to Christianity at a time when the local Pagan God was Cybele. He made the error of not respecting Cybele during a religious procession and was subsequently arrested and flogged. As the son of a noble family he was offered the chance to recant but refused and chose death instead.
His mother, Augusta, encouraged him on his way to execution and was present at her son's death, which took place on 22 August 178, and she allegedly shouted from the city wall: "Nate, Nate, Symphoriane, mentobeto to Diuo" which may be read as ("Son, Son, O Symphorian, remember your God!"). Symphorian was beaten to death with clubs.
Three of the windows are Norman: the largest of the others portrays St George.
The font is Norman and is believed to have been brought here from St Julietta's chapel in Tintagel Castle, it features grotesque heads at each of its four corners alongside serpent carvings.
It is carved out of Elvan, a name used in Cornwall and Devon for the native varieties of quartz-porphyry. They are dispersed irregularly in the Devonian series of rocks and some of them make very fine building stones
The east window which is recent is a memorial to Fr. Canner, vicar 1950–1976.
In 1889 a 4th century Roman mile stone was unearthed in the church grounds, which is now on display inside the church. The inscription preserves the name of the Emperor Gaius Flavius Valerius Licinianus Licinius who was put to death in 324 AD. Licinius is a little known but important Emperor who oversaw new laws on toleration of Christianity during his reign. The single God of Christianity had been at odds with the multiple deities of Rome leading to persecution, prior to this change.
He coexisted with Emperor Constantine I, even marrying his sister, until an eventual falling out over various wars led to allegations of conspiracy against Constantine. Constantine ordered he be hanged in 325.
Is it just a coincidence that this stone bearing the name of the man who ended the persecution of Christians in the Roman Empire, is found buried in the grounds of one of the earliest Christian Holy sites in England?
South Wales Daily News - Wednesday 27 December 1893
THE WRECK NEAR TINTAGEL. The mate and six of the crew of the Italian barque, Iota, wrecked near Tintagel, have been despatched by Colonel Hawker, Lloyd's agent, and agent for the Shipwrecked Mariners' Society, by rail from Camelford Station to Cardiff, where they will join a steamer which sails for Italy. The captain and the other seamen remain in charge of the wreck. Several gentlemen from Boscastle kindly sent out articles of clothing to be distributed amongst the crew, so that all are made nice and comfortable for their journey. The men, at the station, before leaving, through the mate, expressed their gratefulness to all for the great kindness shown them, and especially to the people of Tintagel, with whom they had been lodged.
West Briton and Cornwall Advertiser - Monday 22 January 1894
CAMELFORD
Bravery Rewarded. The Board of Trade have awarded their bronze medal for gallantry in saving life at sea to Charles Hamblyn of Tintagel for his gallant and praiseworthy service at the wreck of the Italian barque "Iota” on Lye Rock, near Tintagel on the 20th December 1893.
I'll end with the controversial and sad death of a local man in 1912. Claude Escott Cann died after a fight at a dance. Tempers were obviously heated and a Frederick Campbell Giles ended up hitting Mr. Cann on the nose. Mr. Cann died the following day and Mr. Giles was charged with manslaughter. At the trial the evidence of how Cann died was inconclusive.
The prosecution said that his death had been accelerated by the blow, but the court heard that Claude Cann's post-mortem revealed that his brain was perfectly normal and as such there was doubt as to whether the blow had had any effect in accelerating his death. It was then said that having regard to that doubt that it would not be safe for any jury to convict the youth and he was discharged.
Western Daily Mercury - Tuesday 03 September 1912
TINTAGEL SENSATION.
MOVING SCENES AT FUNERAL
CLAUDE CROWD SYMPATHISERS
MEMORIAL SUBSCRIBED FOR BY VISITORS.
St. Materiana Church, standing grim and bare on the Tintagel headland for centuries, has been the scene of few occurrences more sorrowful than that of yesterday, when the remains of Claude Escott Cann were laid reverently to rest. The sun shone brilliantly, and just now the visitors’ season at this romantic resort is at its height, but a sense of sadness pervaded the whole place. Residents and visitors have for days discussed the sad sequence of events, and on every hand sympathy has been expressed with the parents and relatives so suddenly and tragically called upon to lose a youth who gave considerable promise and was deservedly popular. Farmers left their harvesting and slate-workers their quarries to pay a last tribute to the memory of the deceased. The young visitor, Frederick Campbell Giles, who has been charged with the manslaughter of Cann, sent a wreath "With sympathy and deep regret.” whilst another choice floral tribute of sorrow and sympathy was sent by Mr., Mrs., and Miss Giles.
Clifton Society - Thursday 05 September 1901
The Church, standing on the edge of the cliff, is dedicated to St. Materiana and is quite the most ancient in Cornwall. It's restoration, rendered a the necessity by the lapse of centuries, has been undertaken by careful and reverent hands, and its cruciform plan has been entirely preserved.............Outside, however, in the bleak churchyard there is little of interest except the base of a venerable cross....... It is comparatively of recent years that the inhabitants of Tintagel, and its vicinity, have realised its attractions for the traveller. It is now visited by strangers, and pilgrims, artists, and antiquarians, poets, and pleasure seekers, as well as by the ordinary tourist, who regards it in the light of an "excuse for a picnic".
Can I add photographers and bloggers to the list of visitors?
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