This walk took place in January 2024. Teignmouth (The Montpellier of England) is an interesting town built on a spit of land that crosses the mouth of the river Teign where it meets the sea in Lyme Bay. The main part of town has two waterfronts, the east facing open sea and the west facing the lagoon of the tidal river Teign, which is called The Salty. Where the river narrows there is a road bridge over to Shaldon the sister town of Teignmouth on the south bank of the river which I have also walked and photographed and which will follow on from this series.
Teignmouth has its own lighthouse at the end of the spit to guide shipping in to the harbour through the narrow river entrance. On the seafront is a sea wall and a pleasure pier. I start the walk on the end of the spit by the lighthouse with some sea views and then take the very short walk across the spit to look up river across The Salty.
The tiny lighthouse was built in 1845 for £300 and it has never had or needed a live in lighthouse keeper, being easily accessible in the town. West Teignmouth developed as a port and East Teignmouth became a seaside resort in 1750.
There was a precursor to the sea wall.
Bath Chronicle and Weekly Gazette - Thursday 19 July 1792
......A new gravel walk is making by subscription near the beach, at Teignmouth, 15 feet wide, and 1600 feet long, which will command a most beautiful and delightful view of the sea and sea coast.
This view is from the end of the spit looking south along the coast. Keep going in a straight line and you end up in Brittany in France.
Looking north from this point is the pier, built in 1865 which was originally 700 feet long with buildings at the seaward end. The sea will always work hard to ultimately shorten a pier, to what we see today. In fact it has also been working hard to remove what is left.
There is a running theme of anchors around the town, both real and artistic. This one was trawled up by local fishermen off Start Point in Start Bay, further south. Before it emerged from the water they must have thought they had a record catch of fish. It weighs approximately two tons, was hand forged and is estimated to be 300 years old.
Teignmouth has been one of the places to go for seaside cures for hundreds of years, for those who could make the journey. Especially if you wanted fashionable wallpaper too.
Sherborne Mercury - Monday 19 May 1777
LODGINGS
To be LETT, at Teignmouth, Devonshire about twelve miles from the city of Exeter, for the bathing season.
A Convenient and genteel Part of the Dwelling-House of Mr Bass, situate on the sea-side; consisting of parlour, kitchen, pantry, cellar, and other convenient offices, on the ground floor; a dining-room, three chambers, and a closet on the first floor, with rooms for servants, &c. The parlour, dining-room and chambers newly hung with fashionable papers &c. The house commands a delightful prospect of the sea and land. There is likewise stabling for six horses if required. Teignmouth May 13 1777
Chester Courant - Tuesday 15 December 1789
The Marquis of Buckingham, Family and Suite, have been at Teignmouth, in Devonshire (which for fine Air is reckoned the Montpellier of England) all the Autumn ; but we are sorry to hear that his Lordship has not benefited as much as could be wished from such a circumstance.
The Marchioness of Buckingham adds another illustrious instance of connubial Attachment, as well as her noble Relation, Lady Wynne. During his Lordship's Stay at Teignmouth, and since, she never absented herself one Day from attending those Duties which constitute the Charms of Life, whether in a Palace or a Cottage.
Along the spit and facing the sea is Powderham Terrace, a row of 15 houses built in the mid 19th century, unsurprisingly at around the time of the building of the sea wall and the pier. Three of the houses were restored after being bombed in the 2nd World War. Teignmouth has always been in the front line of defence, being an important small port and facing the English Channel.
Groynes help to slow erosion by the sea although in this case the spit is built by the material from erosion further north. Longshore drift brings the material south in a battle between sea and river to block off the entrance or keep it open.
"Longshore drift is the name of the process where materials are moved along the coastline. Waves approach the coast at an angle. Swash carries sediment up the beach at an angle. Backwash carries sediment down the beach with gravity – at right angles to the beach."
It eventually reaches a compromise with a narrow river entrance kept open by the relentless movements of the tides and the occasional flood waters of the Teign which rises on Dartmoor 31 miles away.
Large ships weigh anchor in Lyme Bay and the other bays along this coast, sometimes to take shelter from storms and sometimes because they are ahead of schedule to dock in major ports like Rotterdam.
There were originally two villages, East and West Teignmouth, separated by a stream called the Tame, which emptied into the Teign through marshland by the current fish quay. Neither village is mentioned in the Domesday Book but East Teignmouth was granted a market by charter in 1253 and one for West Teignmouth followed a few years later. Wikipedia
Documents indicate that Teignmouth was a significant port by the early 14th century, second in Devon only to Dartmouth.
This "You Are Here" map should give a better idea of the unusual shape of the place.
This is the end of the spit looking across to Shaldon. The giant Lego bricks are to prevent the loose sandy beach from damage during storms. Only flimsy boat sheds risk planting a foot on the sandy surface this far out.
This is the view up river, below, with The Salty and then the road bridge in the distance. The original bridge was built in 1827 as a wooden toll bridge. It suffered much damage over the years and was replaced by this one in 1931. We'll see it closer up when I post the Shaldon series when I walked along it.
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Saturday 14 July 1838
TEIGNMOUTH AND SHALDON BRIDGE.
A Special General Meeting of the Teignmouth and Shaldon Bridge Company, held at the Clerk's Office, in Teignmouth, on Tuesday the 10th day of July, 1838. WILLIAM LANGMEAD, Esq., in the Chair, It was resolved,
That it is the unanimous and decided opinion of this Meeting, that the Injury recently sustained by the Bridge was solely and entirely occasioned by the destructive effects of the Worm on such of the Piles on which the Bridge is built, as stood in the Channel of the River, and not from any malconstruction of the Bridge.
That the Report of the Committee, as to their having ascertained that all the Piles and Columns across Salty (about 3/4 of the whole length of the Bridge) being perfectly sound and not all affected by the Worm, is most satisfactory.
That it is highly expedient to rebuild the fallen Arches with as little delay as possible, and that the Clerk be directed to apply to the Exchequer Bill Loan Commissioners, and request the Loan of the necessary amount required for the purpose, such amount as to be ascertained as near as may be by Messrs- Hopkins, who have offered to report thereon without any professional charge on the Company.
That until the Bridge can be again opened, every facility shall be afforded for the public accommodation by the conveyance of Horses and Carriages across the ferry, and that the Committee be requested to take the necessary steps for that purpose.
That this meeting be adjourned to Tuesday the 31st instant, at 11 o'clock, to be then held at this place, to receive the reply from the Commissioners, and determine the further steps that may expedient. WM. LANGMEAD, Chairman.
The Newfoundland fisheries continued to provide the main employment into the early 19th century. With the men in Newfoundland for most of the year, the women did the local fishing and rowed the ferries across the estuary. Early tourists, such as Fanny Burney, referred to the women as the "Amazonians" of Shaldon and Teignmouth, and wrote of their strength, health and tendency to wear trousers or hitch their skirts up to their knees to fish. Wikipedia
Western Times - Friday 13 November 1863
This is a good view of The Salty with the tide going out. It makes a great, calm, natural harbour with a gently sloping beach.
Sherborne Mercury - Monday 04 January 1790
Sir James Wright, Bart. according to his usual custom distributed on Christmas eve, among the poor of Teignmouth, a large quantity of beef; he likewise issued tickets to a great number of poor widows, to receive at his house weekly, during the months of January and February a bushel of coal, and two pecks of turnips and potatoes each.
At this point on the beach, the Teignmouth Shaldon ferry still runs and this contraption looking like an emergency stretcher, aids getting into the boat.
The ferry has not always operated from this point.
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Saturday 04 December 1847
TEIGNMOUTH.
Another "Bank" Gone.—
The old Ferry Point at the entrance of the harbour, where the boat plies to and from Shaldon, is almost swept away,—the oldest inhabitant remembers not to have seen it in such a state as it is at present. The sea has made considerable encroachment on its sandy bank, and taken to itself a much wider portion. Like many banks of the present day, there has been great runs on it, and now it is gone. Messrs. Eastwind and Neptune have drawn considerably on it, though they have now and then made deposit towards its support. Long has it struggled to keep above water, but at length could stem the tide no longer, The bank is gone. The point is lost. Old Tom, the boatman, is compelled to make a long pull and a strong pull for the before hard-earned penny, and he finds the tide is carrying him off too.
The ferry operates a continuous daily service all year round with fewer crossings in winter months. The ferry has been operating since at least 1296 and is the oldest passenger ferry service in continued use in England. The embarkation point moved briefly during the war, further up the beach to the commercial dock as this beach was occupied by the US Forces preparing landing craft for D-Day.
In 1893 a massive legal case and cause celebre dominated the news. It involved the bridge and ferry company and a poor fisherman. The essence of the case as far as I am able to tell involved legislation made at the time of the building of the road bridge across the river. As part of the agreement for the company to raise finance and build the bridge they were allowed to buy the ferry service too. Not an uncommon method of private finance at the time. This though raised the question of a monopoly and its limits.
The bridge company were obliged to continue the passenger ferry service but it raised unforseen serious issues. The case dragged on for months as various points were raised by the magistrates. It revolved around a poor fisherman who carried some passengers across to Shaldon for money. The bridge company wanted him prosecuted and fined 40 shillings, the maximum possible fine.
The magistrates obviously were not convinced of the merits of the case and there was much toing and froing as the bridge company insisted on it being referred to a higher court. The magistrates felt that no company should have the right of total control of the river crossing along its full length and insisted that the bridge company had not specified to their satisfaction that they had a right to a ferry between two specific points only or the whole river. The magistrates stated that the bridge company had not proved their rights even down to how wide the protected passage should be, meaning they were unable to make a judgement.
The bridge company said that if it were not settled with the full weight of the law, there was nothing to stop anyone setting up a large scale steam boat ferry service in competition with the bridge. The magistrates said they were not moved in any case to fine the fisherman who had no money.
It all ended thus, after a ten month tussle.....
Teignmouth Post and Gazette - Friday 10 August 1894
THE TEIGNMOUTH FERRY CASE.
THE MAGISTRATES' JUDGMENT.
George Harris, a fisherman, was charged before the Teignmouth magistrates by the Shaldon Bridge Company, with infringing the Bridge Act. The case was dismissed, but the company, through Mr. J. H. Tozer, the clerk, applied for a case for a higher Court. This was granted, but the case was sent back six times to be re-stated, and eventually the judges sent the case back to the magistrates with an intimation that in the opinion of the Court they ought to convict. The Teignmouth Bench, composed as follows: Col. Graeme (chairman), Col. Nightingale, Messrs. C. R. Collins, and M. L. Brown, fined defendant one penny, with no costs.
Clearly the Teignmouth magistrates were not at all happy with the outcome, having been forced to convict against their better judgement. Their solution was to fine the fisherman a token one penny. The bridge company had what is termed a pyrrhic victory. The fisherman in today's value paid the equivalent of 34 pence instead of £164.
The quays at the end of the beach served for the granite exports in the 19th century where granite from Dartmoor was routed down from Haytor quarry via the granite tramway and the Stover canal to this harbour for loading onto ships to London. I will cover the granite trade in Part 2.
War has played its part throughout Teignmouths history all of the way up to the twentieth century. During The War of the First Coalition between 1792 and 1797 the English channel was a free for all skirmish.
Gloucester Journal - Monday 04 December 1797
The following is an extract of a letter from on board his Majesty's ship Jason, dated on the 22nd inst. about 25 leagues to the Westward of Bellise :- We have been cruising singly for these three weeks, and took nothing till yesterday, we fell in with la Marie French brig privateer, carrying 14 guns, and 87 men, but 27 of whom had been distributed in different prizes. This vessel had been out fifty days from Nantes, and had taken an American and an English brig, but was on her return to port from want of provisions. We have obtained much information from the prisoners as, we hope, may be the means of our taking a few more. This morning we retook the Mary, of Teignmouth, a brig laden with fish and oil, from Newfoundland. They inform us, that there are two more a little to the Westward, which we shall go in search of the moment the prisoners are shifted. These were taken by a twenty gun ship privateer, from Nantes, which is likewise on her way home. There is a French privateer at sea, which was a frigate of 40 guns.— she has been fitted out by the merchants, and has on board about 400 men; We shall keep a sharp look out for her.—
Exeter Flying Post - Thursday 07 December 1848
The gale on Monday night was very boisterous and the sea very rough, notwithstanding which the untimorous fishermen ventured out over the bar and succeeded in catching several thousands of herrings, which have been retailed at eighteen pence the hundred.
(Today £6.00 per hundred) Even at today's equivalent price that would still be a valuable food source for the poor. In fact 100 herrings today would actually cost over a hundred pounds.
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Saturday 26 July 1851
Several parties during the past week have visited the Cockle Island at Coombe Cellars. It is a delightful trip from Teignmouth or Shaldon on a fine evening at high water, when the river has the appearance of a vast lake. The picturesque bridge, with its skeleton-like arches—the shipping at anchor—the villages of Ringmore and Bishopsteignton, with their whitewashed churches peeping from among the trees —and the background of Tors in the distance, add greatly to the beauty of the scene. The sunset too, as seen from the Teign, is almost as gorgeous as those seen in the sunny land of Italy. Visitors are arriving by every train, and it is generally thought, that although the season will be a late one (in consequence of the Great Exhibition), it will in no respect disappoint the expectations formed of this memorable year 1851. Lodging tickets are fast disappearing, and the town is already wearing a different aspect from what it has done for the last few months.
This little snippet gives an insight into how much our media has changed in less than a hundred years.
Western Times - Friday 28 July 1933
TEIGNMOUTH CENTENARIAN
Quaker Lady's 100 Birthday To-day
POETESS OF ABILITY
MISS MARY WILLMOTT, of 36, Second Avenue, Teignmouth, was 100 years of age Wednesday. She has received tho congratulations of the King, the Teignmouth Urban Council, the Society of Friends, and many others, and visitors calling throughout the day have bestowed gifts of flowers upon her, and she has been supremely happy. When a Western Times" representate called he was invited to look upon her, but she had dropped into a sleep, which looked so profoundly peaceful and calm, that to have awakened her would have been an unwarrantable advantage, in spite of the requirements of a modern newspaper.
A thriving beach scene attracting bathers and advertisers.
Exeter Flying Post - Saturday 01 September 1900
As a proof of the popularity of sea bathing the number of machines on the sea front leaves no room for doubt. I counted one day no fewer than forty-three of these, in addition to the private temporary tents which visitors bring with them. That somebody's soap is the best we are reminded from one end of the beach to the other.
Totnes Weekly Times - Saturday 09 April 1898
FIRE AT TEIGNMOUTH.
At the Ship Inn, Queen-street, on Tuesday morning, a fire broke out and destroyed the interior the building. Mr J. Evans, the landlord, retired to rest just after 11 o’clock and two hours later his wife was aroused by the smell of smoke. Mr Evans went downstairs and found the woodwork of the bar on fire. He seized a bucket and ran to the river to get water, but when he returned the flames were entirely beyond control. His wife and daughter had in the meantime been rescued from their bedroom by a neighbour named Hook. A man named Arthurs came into the town and raised an alarm, while Henry Jones, a lamplighter, on his rounds informed Captain Drake of the Fire Brigade, and the new steam fire engine was drawn on to the Quay. Owing to the tide being low a few minutes’ delay was occasioned while one of the firemen fetched another length of hose. With four jets playing on the flame the fire was got under in about 20 minutes, but everything inside the building was burnt. Mr Stooke, of Newton, is the owner of the property, which is leased to Messrs Pinsent, brewers, of Newton. The house and furniture are insured.
The Old Quay was built in the mid-18th century on land leased from Lord Clifford. The opening of the Stover Canal by James Templer in 1792 provided a boost to the port due to the ease with which ball clay could be transported from the mines north of Newton Abbot. After travelling along the canal the barges continued down the estuary to the port. By 1820 this trade was supplemented by granite from the quarries near Haytor on Dartmoor carried via the unique granite-tracked Haytor Granite Tramway which was linked to the Stover Canal. Wikipedia
I'll continue the walk around the quay in Part 2, where I'll mention the granite trade in more detail.
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