This is Part 2 of my Beesands photo walk, On Land. The first thing you need to know is that there isn't much land, and what there is, is squeezed into a narrow strip of buildings between the beach and the steep sloping land behind. This shot is taken from that steep hillside where the South West Coast Path rises above the last few houses on it's way to Hallsands.
This is the original settlement and mostly what people imagine when they picture Beesands. There are some more recent developments set back from the front, along the road that descends from Beeson into the village.
This is the oldest map with any detail, that I could find. It is around the 1840's. As I described in my "Beesands 1 At Sea" post, the village originates from beach huts or fishing cellars built by the people of Beeson, who lived further inland. Over time as it became safer to live near the shore as foreign invaders were held at bay, those huts and cellars to store boats and fishing nets, became cottages that were permanently inhabited.
Fishing has always been a dangerous business and this very small community that founded this place had more than their share of tragedy over the years.
Exeter and Plymouth Gazette - Friday 28 February 1908
BEESANDS FISHERMAN DROWNED.
Thomas Wills Stone, a fisherman of Beesands, was drowned in sight of his home, and before the eyes of his daughter, Harriet Stone.
Deceased, who was nearly 70 years of age had been out to sea fishing, and was alone in his boat. The wind was off-shore, but was strong and gusty. About 3pm. Stone had nearly reached the beach, when a puff of wind overturned the boat, which sank, and its occupant was drowned. The occurrence was witnessed by his daughter who was awaiting her father's return from sea. An active search was at once instituted, quite a fleet of boats being employed in dragging up and down near the scene of the disaster. Their efforts were not rewarded until yesterday morning, when the boat was recovered about 200 yards from the shore. The body of Stone was, however, not found. Deceased leaves a widow and grown-up family, of whom two sons and a daughter live at home. About two years ago two sons of deceased's met with a similar accident while at sea and one them, found a watery grave.
This structure, below, looks like a water conduit. These were used as a community water supply before houses had direct water supplies. The conduits were usually fed from a nearby spring, and sanitary conditions here at Beesands, were fairly basic even into the middle of the twentieth century.
Western Times - Friday 16 July 1948
PETITION FROM BEESANDS
Village Sanitation Protest
A petition by residents on the foreshore at the fishing village of Beesands asking for improved sanitation and water supplies was received and has been sent to Kingsbridge Rural Council.
Failing action the petitioners stated their determination to press for a public enquiry. The conditions in the village are very primitive, the petitioners pointed out Lavatory accommodation consists of out-houses without flushes, and in some cases one is shared by two families. Water is obtained from standpipes. and when a large amount is being drawn from one end the pipe-line pressure falls at the other. When the villagers were called to the "signing meeting " on the foreshore, 103 out of the total of 111 local inhabitants signed.
Copies of the petition have been sent to Devon County Council, Brig. Ralph Rayner, M.P., and the Ministry of Health. A telegram has been sent to the Ministry of Health, which states: "Urgent appeal. Fear real public health menace exists. Inadequate sewage arrangements."
Life here in Beesands has always been lived at the mercy of the waves and storms. Even now protected by a massive sea wall, waves will still crash over the top so precautions are still necessary. Long before the wall was built occasional great storms could cause much damage. This news extract below follows war news and details of shipping lost to U-boat attacks. Hallsands came off worst as we know, but Beesands too was in the firing line of the sea.
Western Morning News - Monday 29 January 1917
Hallsands.
........ when the sea rose to the stupendous height it did on Friday and Saturday the houses there had little or no protection. Three or four succumbed to the raging of the sea during the high tide on Friday evening, and on Saturday evening many more of them were practically demolished. All the inhabitants of those homes have been rendered homeless. Every house on the sea-front under the cliff had eventually to be abandoned by its inhabitants.
Beesands.
Beesands, a sort of twin village with Hallsands, is almost a mile over the cliffs nearer Torcross; several miles around by road. Its approach is through another village called Beeson, and it occupies the mouth of the valley which opens widely towards the sea, and Beesands one row of houses face the water, with little or no protection from such high seas as were experienced during the past two days. The little mission church which Miss Theresa Johnson of Totnes built some years ago stands uninjured: but all the other houses beyond that are more or less damaged on their lower floors, and the roadway and footpath in front of them, which in summer time has looked so picturesque and peaceful is twisted and turned up and strewn with the sand and stones and debris from the sea......
.....The inhabitants of all the houses had a very lively time on Friday and Saturday nights. All sorts of oddments were brought forth to barricade windows and doors from the wind and waves, which often seemed to wash completely over the houses.
.......The little public house at Beesands goes by the attractive name of "The Cricket" - at whose suggestion so named, the present generation hardly knows. The landlord took down the boards securing his door to admit customers, and carefully replaced them again when the customers left, as if he expected the sea to again bombard his house when the tide returned. But it was the further end of the village that suffered most. There the roadway has disappeared, and also a part of Mrs. Dymond's garden; but on the whole the people of Beesands, like the people of Torcross - bad as their plight was - have not suffered the complete homelessness which is the fate of the Hallsands people.
The Cricket Inn has been a destination for holiday makers and day trippers as far back as 1894 at least.
East & South Devon Advertiser. - Saturday 07 July 1894
On Thursday last the employees of Messrs. Mills Bros of the Old Brewery, Newton, held their annual outing. Journeying by rail to Totnes in the morning they proceeded down the Dart in the fast and powerful steamer "Stoke Castle," previously engaged from the owner Mr Baker and under the Command of Admiral White, Ship Inn, Newton. Passing out of Dartmouth harbour a pleasant breeze tempered the heat of the sun, and made the voyage along Start Bay to the Start Point Lighthouse most delightful. The party dined at the Cricket Hotel, Beesands, where the catering was all that could be desired. On going up the Dart, stoppage was made for tea at Stoke Gabriel, after which on arrival at Totnes they took the train to Newton, all highly pleased with the provision made by Messrs. Mills Bros, to furnish them with a day’s enjoyment.
Western Morning News - Wednesday 14 February 1940
16 CHILDREN
11 WILL BE AT PARENTS' GOLDEN WEDDING
TOMORROW Mr. and Mrs. Elias Courtenay of the Cricket Inn, Beesands, celebrate their golden wedding. But the real celebrations will be on Saturday, when eleven of their sixteen children will join in a party in their honour.
For twelve years Mr. and Mrs. Courtenay lived at Stoke Woods, Exeter, and in more recent years Mr. Courtenay was at Blackawton, leaving in 1921 for Beesands. Mr. and Mrs. Courtenay have had eighteen children —nine boys and nine girls. Two boys died in infancy. Of the remaining sixteen, fifteen are married. There are twenty-nine grandchildren and eight great-grandchildren, including twins less than twelve months of age. Both Mr. and Mrs. Courtenay were one of a family of fifteen. Seven of Mr. Courtenay's brothers and sisters are alive, six being over 70. Mrs. Courtenay's parents, too still live. Four of their daughters are married to local fishermen.
Much of Beesands history has related to the beach, it's erosion after the Hallsands tragedy, and the subsequent defences that were put in place.
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Saturday 08 April 1995
.......Millions of tonnes of shingle have been stripped from the beaches from Torcross to Hallsands by the sea driven by continual south westerly winds. Levels have also dropped at neighbouring Beesands beach. Beesands Cricket Inn landlord Cyril Courtenay revealed that boat owners were unable to launch there...... because beach levels have fallen so much.
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Thursday 28 September 1995
Pint pulling dynasty ends at Cricket Inn with Cyril's last delivery.
BEESANDS’ Cricket Inn one of the most colourful pubs in South Devon is about to see the end of a family innings that has spanned almost three quarters of a century Landlord Cyril Courtney and his wife Maggie pull their last pints behind the bar at the end of November And when they go it will mark the end of a family business which dates back to 1921 when Cyril’s grandad first took over the village inn Since then the pub has been bombed, flooded, and swamped with thousands of visitors who flock to the time-warp seaside village every year....
Probably most of the cottages, today, are either holiday homes or holiday lets. But this is nothing new as we have seen, this has always been a desirable spot for holidays.
Bristol Evening Post - Monday 28 May 1956
YOUR HOLIDAY GUIDE
BEESANDS. S. Devon.-Furnished cottage on sea shore, sleep 5. Main services: June 2-June 16, after Sept 7.- 20, Beesands, Kingsbridge.
Western Morning News - Friday 18 September 1936
NOT SOUTH DEVON, BUT HEAVEN
Royal Bargemaster
PRAISES KINGSBRIDGE DISTRICT
There could no greater enthusiast over the Kingsbridge district than Mr. J. T. ("Bossie") Phelps, the Putney boat-builder, who has been Bargemaster to the King for three years- Mr. Phelps is now staying at a Torcross Hotel, and told a Western Morning News reporter how much he was enjoying his holiday. "This should be called South Heaven instead of South Devon," he said. "I've been all over the world, and I've never found a district that compared with it. It is a busman's holiday in a way for me, as I spend most of my time on the water with my friends the Beesands fishermen. I go out with them in the crab boats regularly, and sometimes in the trawlers and spend a night or so at sea.
FISHING OR WALKING. " You see all my interests are linked with rowing and the water. I've never been to a cricket match, a football match, a race meeting, or tennis tournament in my life. When I'm not fishing while I'm here, I spend my time walking. My love of the water is not surprising, really. The name of Phelps has been linked with the Navy and the River Thames since the 13th century. I am a builder and a waterman. You have to qualify before you become a licensed waterman, which is something like a pilot. My father and grandfather were watermen before me, and my sons are watermen and lightermen, too."
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Monday 14 September 1992
Testing time for sea wall
SOUTH Devon villagers are breathing a sigh of relief after a massive new wall designed to save their homes from the sea passed its first test with flying colours. The £1.7 million sea defence work at Beesands is still at least two months away from completion. But a 490 metre concrete wall was recently finished just in time to receive a battering from some of the worst storms this year. Beesands stayed high and dry behind the new barrier while other towns and villages along the South West coastline ended up under water. The wall stood up well to storms which combined high tides with south westerly gales to send waves crashing against the defence line. “There was flooding at a number of places around the coast but the wall did its job" said a spokesman for the National River Authority which is paying for the scheme. The project involving building the wall and laying 50,000 tonnes of boulders along the sea front began in February. It was due to be completed by the end of last month but work is likely to go on for another two months because of various setbacks mainly caused by the weather. Although the wall is complete, work on the boulder barrier is still continuing.
Britannia @ The Beach evolved from an idea by local fishing family Nick and Anita Hutchings, as a way of completing the cycle from catching seafood, to retailing it and now also offering it as part of a varied and exciting menu at the beach shack.
The family has owned the building for nearly 40 years, using it in connection with their fishing business, firstly as the bait store and then from the mid ‘90’s as the operating centre for their business Britannia Shellfish Ltd. After 11 years this business had outgrown these premises and moved to a purpose built unit on the edge of the village. It is still run by the Hutchings’ family now.
With its’ historic fishing connections and rustic appeal ‘the shack’ has now evolved into a much loved local landmark, being directly on the shingle beach at Beesands, between Torcross and historic Hallsands. Britannia at the beach.
Many people remember that decades ago it was possible to park your caravans on what is called the village green today. It was a rare site for camping right next to a beach. Only in Britain could someone called Earl Grey come along to a protest for a cup of Earl Grey.
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Saturday 31 August 1985
Village "fights for" its life
EARL Grey took tea with Beesands residents yesterday and heard their fears for the future of the community. Lord Grey who lives at Ringmore was invited to the coastal village near Kingsbridge to receive two petitions and a pile of letters to protest that a local caravan site has been registered as a village green.
The petitions were handed over at the Cricket Inn the only place in the village large enough to hold the 100 protesters who turned up to show their concern. Caravan owners travelled from London and the North of England to Beesands yesterday.
Refused
Last month after a long legal battle Beesands Estates, who run the caravan site close to the shoreline were refused leave to take their case to the House of Lords. Villagers believe that Beesands will die if the caravans are forced off and they hope the Lords will reconsider the case in view of the public concern.
Nearly 60 letters from regular summer visitors and caravan owners all over Britain were handed to Lord Grey along with two petitions by Beesands residents over and under 18 years. At present the 7 1/2 acre site has 100 vans. After talking to protesters Lord Grey said that many residents and caravan owners obviously felt very strongly "It means an awful lot to them" he said "From what we have seen so far I support the villagers on this."
For more than three hundred years the coastline of South-West England was at risk of being raided by Barbary Pirates (otherwise known as Ottoman Corsairs). They not only attacked the local ships but carried out raids onshore to capture men, women and children for the slave markets of North Africa.
The South West Coast Path is the UK's longest National Trail, 630 miles in length. Starting at Minehead in Somerset it runs along the coastline of Exmoor, continuing along the coast of North Devon in to Cornwall. It follows the entire coastline of Cornwall, goes across the mouth of the River Tamar and continues into Devon. After running along the south coast of Devon it then follows the Dorset coastline before finally ending at Poole Harbour.
With dramatic coastal scenery and breathtaking views of surrounding countryside and moorland, the path offers something for everyone – whether you’re an experienced trekker looking for a huge challenge, a relaxed rambler wanting scenic strolls, a young backpacker embarking on an adventure or a family keen to explore the great outdoors.
Wolverhampton Express and Star - Monday 30 April 2001
Gelignite found in beach sea-wall stones
A beach was sealed off to the public today as officials searched for boulders containing unexploded quarry detonators. Beesands beach, near Kingsbridge, south Devon, was closed yesterday when a child discovered detonator wires sticking out of one of the huge stones used in the coastal protection scheme.
A military bomb squad blew up two boulders in a controlled explosion. The boulders were shipped to the beach eight years ago from Scandinavia, police said today. It is thought that gelignite used to quarry the stones had failed to explode.
This was just a field, well into the 20th century, there were no houses at this end of the village, leaving an empty unpopulated line all of the way to the other end of the beach at Beesands Cellars, with a small road leading over the beach for access.
Here, in the distance is what is left of Beesands Cellars, now inaccessible by road, which has been washed away.
Torbay Express and South Devon Echo - Tuesday 24 March 1998
"Sea threat" villagers must save themselves
AROUND 500 tonnes of rocks sealed in steel baskets will soon be the only thing standing between the sea and a tiny South Devon hamlet. And even that may not be enough to save the owners from finally having to abandon their seaside homes at Beesands Cellars. The residents of the seven houses could still see the only road route to their hamlet washed away by the sea - leaving them with no vehicular access to their homes. Meanwhile they are planning to spend up to £80,000 this summer on building a mini sea wall of gabion baskets filled with stone along 160 metres of beach in front of the buildings - because no-one else is prepared to help them.
Their last hopes of cash aid from South Hams Council were dashed after councillors agreed to give the residents all the advice they need but no money.
Safeguarding
Mrs Sandra Vosper one of the members of the Beesands Cellars Association said after the council’s health and safety committee decision: “All I can say is that they offered their sympathy but not a lot else.” Some years ago almost £2 million was spent on safeguarding the main village of Beesands with a sea wall and huge boulders.
But so far the Beesands Cellars villagers have been told they are on their own. The sea is eating away the foreshore outside their homes so fast that they reckon that within five years it could be lapping at their house walls. Even if they build the 160 metre mini-wall it will still leave some 200 yards of unprotected seafront which they do not own and if that goes it could take the track to their houses with it. With that gone the only route to the hamlet would be by foot or by sea.
Village green
The residents are hoping that in the long term there will be a major scheme to protect the Beesands village green which is also at risk from the sea which could include their homes “We will just have to go on fighting and hope that something will be done to protect the whole lot eventually” Mrs Vosper added.
Above those houses, hidden in the trees are the remains of World War 2 pill boxes, used to defend this strategic bay from German attacks, or invasion. I cover the second World War in a little more detail in my next part of this series Beesands 3 In Heaven.
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